Farewell

Incredible India


So the time came to bid farewell to India, what an incredible 10 months it has been! Leaving as abruptly as I arrived by taking a flight on the spur of the moment seemed absolutely the right way to end my journey.  This experience started out as an exciting work opportunity.  In his regard, my expectations of being an IVC for DiA were certainly met and exceeded with the additional responsibility of taking on the role and India volunteer programme solo.

Upon reflection, the varied and chaotic months not only presented an interesting new work ethic but also provided a period of personal growth, mental stimulation and letting go of barriers which had been holding me back for far too long.

Little by little, whether it be an overnight train or bus journey, cycling around on a Ladybird push-bike, sitting on the back of an Enfield or simply stomping around by foot, I progressively explored a fraction of some of India's stunning states which I felt very privileged to be in a position to do.  Not only did I uncover lush landscapes such as beaches, backwaters and rocky hills, I also learnt more about different styles of yoga whenever the opportunity arose and most importantly developed an increased awareness of my capabilities.

It was as if being in India had given me a freedom pass to be the person I am comfortable expressing, without judgement.  It did help being part of the several groups comprising of my volunteers and in turn being introduced into their social networks.  For a period of time it was fun hopping from one group to another with intermittent gaps of solitude which were sometimes needed.

The thing about India which is what struck me the first time I visited as a naive gap year teen, is the constant paradoxes that remind me of why I was drawn to coming again and most likely will revisit over and over.  Let me not get into the bartering culture which quite frankly despite being a hassle I always actually enjoyed.  The infamous head wobble became incorporated into my method of communication and despite not spending enough time in each state to get a good grasp of the multitude of languages, I can say that I have gained a much deeper comprehension of how things do/don't work in India to get by.  Do not search for explanations, just accept and whether you like it or not most Indians will have a very big smile on their faces the most I have seen of any culture.

Of course I experienced major highs and lows, this is natural in a country of extremes with less boundaries in some respects but restrictions evident in the form of hardships which were at times difficult to witness.  During my time in India, I was surprised at the extent of change the country appeared to have undergone which I found very impressive.  However always in the backstreets, a slum on the outskirts and a small rural settlement away I was reminded of the stark inequalities that exist within a society where the caste system still prevails.

From the NGO side of the experience, I am glad I was able to infiltrate the several different grassroots establishments: Sharana, Volontariat, DGA and Seva Mandir which are all conducting fantastic development related projects which has inspired me to pursue more involvement in local organisations as opposed to the larger agencies who grab all of the media attention.  I have learnt to relax my ideals and aim to assist where relevant  organisations who are really working for their people and have the local knowledge necessary for successful programmes.  I remember in my degree theorising participatory development and indigenous knowledge which I am still very much an advocate of today.  I may not be qualified or required to work directly on community initiatives and with the beneficiaries but I at least know now that rather than sitting at a desk and feeling like one small part of a big machine, I need to do something more pro-active, hands-on and face-to-face.  I am a people's person not a, I want to engage with communities groups of varying nationalities, cultures and social backgrounds whether it be whilst travelling, working overseas, or even in my local supermarket.

India holds a very special place within my soul, it touches me in a way that I probably will not fully appreciate for a while yet but I sense that I cannot ignore the affinity I have to this raw and charming country.  There are many aspects of India which are love-able and simultaneously off-putting, that is the beauty of it and the people within this special land.

Thank you for everything: I have laughed, cried and loved intensely, travelled exhaustively, wandered independantly, lost and re-awakened myself several times over but never have I felt so alive...only in India.

Om shanti ॐ

To learn more about volunteering in India or becoming an IVC with DiA: www.developmentinaction.org

Last 2 months of 2010

November - December

Looking back over November and December post - Hampi and the volunteer visit in Pune, I realise how much I experienced during the last 2 months of 2010. More state crossings and several celebrations made this a colourful and possibly my favourite period of the year.
I will continue with the route I took, starting with an awful overnight bus journey to Udaipur from Pune. Not only was I sat uncomfortably for the entirety but I also had a slightly psychotic girl next to me who decided to take up half of my limited seat space and elbow me at frequent intervals!

Anyway I was relieved to reach the beautiful town and headed straight for my favoutire guest-house offering yoga classes every morning. I go tmyself settled and that evening met with the Seva Mandir volunteers minus one who was bedridden. I enjoyed the next few days wandering around the lake which had filled up substantially since the first time I had been. The rooftop yoga was really revitalising, after the over-indulgences of Pune my body felt like it was getting what it needed once more and the teacher was unique in his delivery style using only short sharp sounds to signal the changing of asanas.

Diwali

Plans for Diwali were the main topic of conversation, this is what I had timed my visit for and was excited about the prospect of experiencing it with one of my volunteers who was making arrangements for us.

When the actual day came, I was not feeling on top form after a night of cramps and shivers but determined to experience this special celebrations as much as possible. In the end I spent this festival of lights, the biggest celebration of the year (in India) in a family home where we partook in Puja. Some details of the ceremony were explained such as the dipping of coins in water, milk and curd.  It was a priviliege to celebrate with an Indians who true to their reputation were very welcoming. Oil lamps lit up the neighbourhood which was beautiful sight but gave a feeling of great humbleness. We moved onto to another part of town called Bapu Bazaar where the crowds were gathering around the Town Hall for the spectacular firework display which ensued and at times were within arms reach!

Pushkar

With one occasion over, another reason for my timing of the visit to Udaipur coincided with the famous annual Pushkar Camel Fair which the volunteers had been talking about since Orientation Week. I have to say I had no idea what to expect, picturing camels everywhere was not really an image I could get to grips with but one we were all very intrigued about. Pushkar itself was a place I had wanted to visit on my previous trip around the country but somehow hadn't made. Our view from the guest-house rooftop gave a good sense of the small, spiritual feeling of the holy-lake town.

A brief encounter with a friend from Pune who introduced us to a young Australian lead us to having a new crew member and guide who took us into the areas of interest. Describing the camel section as mind-blowing was an understatement, as we proceeded into the abyss of animals and peered around the sight was one of total surrealness...a sea of camels as far as the eye could see! It looked like a festival camp site with the humped creatures taking the place of humans and a bizarre hum of grunts which filled the air instead of music. AMAZING! Even more entertaining was the programme of events which followed in the stadium nearby. A timetable of camel racing, decorating contests and a football game between Indians and foreigners which the international team won and included my volunteer getting man of the match :) After several days of spectating, we decided to move on to Jodhpur for more Rajasthani sight-seeing.

Jodhpur

Also know as the Blue City and famous for it's Fort, Jodhpur was a manageable 5 hour ride away.

Our stay was a brief one but we saw what was important and the Jodhpur Fort was definitely worth visiting especially with the audio guides which prevented any nuisances caused by incessant guides. The sky was quite hazy and therefore we were not able to really capture the true blueness of the old city however it still made for a picturesque landscape. Near the exit a Palm Reader attracted out attention and we each took our turn to pay a visit to the quirky grey-haired palmist. Some of his remarks about my personality rang true, intuitive and and sensitive. But other observations about my family and love-life for example were a little off the mark! Still, I was particularly interested to hear that I would meet somebody at the ages of 29, 32 and that my most successful period will be in my mid-thirties :) Watch this space...

We left our Australian buddy behind to return to Udaipur where I stayed on for the next occasion which was the birthday of one of my volunteers. We held a party at the accommodation which was a lovely day/evening involving sophisticated snacks of cheese and olives followed by a lot of cake-face and shisha. A great ending to the month of merriment.

Pune

On 1st December every year, World AIDS Day is marked internationally by a rnage of events and campaigns. I had decided that it would be a great shame to miss the action surrounding this significant cause in Pune wehere the volunteers at DGS were preparing a programme of activities in aid of those affected by HIV/AIDS. So off I headed to Pune once more and in the process experienced the most horrific bus journey yet. It was honestly an unforgettable ride, little me in a sleeper bed on top-deck at the back...being in a washing maching is the closest thing I can describe the experience to. Shocking! Anyway it was obviously worth it as the day I arrived there was already an event planned for the evening which took the shape of a live male-auction in a popular bar in town. Some of the performances were slightly cringeworthy but all for a good cause and done in good humour.

In the lead up to WAD, the volunteers had a packed schedule of awareness-raising activities arranged to include street theatre, chalking and a stigma tunnel which was set up in various communties with high HIV/AIDS prevelance for the purpose of trying to help combat stigmatisation which unfortunately is a common cause of isolation for sufferers and their families. On 1st December, the WAD rally took place across town with a coalition of HIV/AIDS awareness NGO's joining forces taking to the streets with banners, leaflets and chants drawing attention the cause. Many passers by were engaged and we continued the campaigning action by conducting more street theatre plays around the topic in numerous parts of the city.

Overall I would say the volunteers made the whole series of events a success, very creative and well organised...it was evident their hard work had paid off as they even made it into the local newspapers a few times!

Hampi as can be...

Hampi - October

The initial scenery was already impressive, an incredible amount of boulders scattered everywhere! It took a little while to find the right place but in the end I settled for a nice room in the quieter backstreets, the view was what won me over as from my bed I could see the river, rockscape and plush palm trees...


The first three days I spent doing some hardcore sightseeing of the ruins of the Vijayanagar Empire, temples of all shapes and sizes not to mention the amazing scenery on the walks and cycles to each monument – truly breathtaking and like nothing I have ever seen. Wildlife here is active with plenty of monkeys, parrots, toads, lizards and a surprising amount of sheep! Hampi is so rich in history and natural beauty, it is perfect for those seeking both cultural and spiritual exploration. Everywhere you look there is something to discover and at the same time it is a great place for respite. Hampi Bazaar is small enough to feel like part of a community and as a whole big enough to disappear and lose yourself amongst the rocks.The only qualm I have is the hassle, like in all tourist trail destinations, the incessant hollering from shop-keepers, stall sellers, guides, guide-bookers, mappers and worst of all the families at every sight requesting photographs. There are only so many times I can take being asked for my picture from complete strangers who most of the time are laughing at me whilst doing so, so NO! It occurred to me how people living in the public eye must feel, whilst it is flattering it is also hard constantly saying no but it is not possible to pose for every photo. Catching people taking pictures from every angle whenever setting foot outside is very disturbing. That's all.

Regardless, I could happily stay in Hampi for a longer period of time perhaps over the river where one is more submersed into the landscape if I really want total peace. This is remarkably the first time I have slept soundly, it is a statisfying feeling to be physically tired from doing outdoor activities in pretty intense heat which I actually enjoyed after being in cooler Pondy.

It was noticeable to me that this is a dry state, no alchohol means people entertain themselves differently in the evenings such as strolling around, watching the sunset and relaxing in the numerous restaurants with cosy floor-seating areas some with occassional live music. I enjoyed going to the Virupaksha Temple one night, the darkness gave it a different vibe and it was much more atmospheric with the puja taking place and elephant wandering around. On my last night I came across a wedding celebration in the main bazaar, where I witnessed lively drumming and dancing taking place all the way along the path to my guest-house...perfect ending.