By the sea in Holy Puri
It felt right to be going to Puri, from the description in the guidebook I knew it was going to be just what I needed. From one State to another, once I again an overnight train journey ensued and this time a Japanese female lone traveller was sharing the berth. She too was headed that way so we decided to help each other. Hotel Love & Life, that sounded like my kind of place but when we checked in I soon realised it was obviously not the place to be.
I used the remainder of the first day to explore the dusty little town by the sea, full of coastline and sleepy streets in direct sunshine lined with walls displaying copies of artwork by the Orissan Tribes.
Pink House, literally on the beach close to the fisherman's village where you could watch them going out and hear the waves coming in ...the following day I packed my bags and moved to this new perfect place where I instantly unwound.
Amidst the seashore and empty restaurants, several temples within and just outside of the town were worth paying a visit. The Jagganath Temple is an impressive structure, which unfortunately I was not permitted to enter as a non-Hindu but conveniently the library opposite let me view it from above for a small 'donation' which let me get a glimpse of the inside. In fact, Puri is renowned for being a town where pilgrims come to see this very temple and where travellers can recharge their batteries, both of which add to the special vibe.
Then there was the Sun Temple, a bus ride away through swampy scenery to Konark an even smaller town which exists purely around this sight. I was quite surprised by it as for some reason I had imagined it to be very colourful which it wasn't as it is all made up of a type of stone. Still, the hundreds of statues depicting stories I can only imagine and some practising the Karma Sutra were interesting to see!
What I enjoyed most about Puri was that I felt I could easily blend into the background, I was happy just exisiting there and doing nothing special except get on with work, talk with travellers and occassionally go to see my new Indian acquaintance who was quite a magical man. When the week was over I spent my last night on the Indian tourist beach which was a spectacular sight with the hords of families, chai wallahs, candyflossers and my favourite bhel puri stands which I just could not resist. Bells rang, horns blew and a buzz filled the air as the sun set.
Saturday 9 October 2010
A Big City and a Bengali Wedding
Kolkata
The journey to Kolkata was pretty standard, my 'Ladies quota' berth still had men in it but there was a nice family with baby to stare at. Anyway all was well until the end when I put my phone to charge and turned my back for one minute to look at the scenery outsideof the door, only to find that somebody (probably the strange man who appeared from nowehere and squeezed himself into the side berth opposite) had taken it and scarpered. It is a shame really because I always felt at ease on the trains but now I have learnt my lesson not to trust everyone so much and be more vigilent!
Luckily I had mentioned where I was aiming to stay to my friend whom had invited me to Kolkata for a wedding which was the reeason for my trip there in the first place! The Times Guest House, unfortunately not a place for spending much time in. My single room was definitely the most budget so far, a matchbox and a communal bathroom I could just about fit in...my first shower was quite an experience. Thankfully I was saved from despair when my friend turned up at my room, perfect timing. Good food was had at the rather randomly placed Moulin Rouge restaurant where plans for sightseeing and the wedding were discussed.
The first full day in the city was pretty busy, we headed off to be tourists visiting various sights such as the Planetarium with amusing show, Park Street Cemetery which was bizarrely beautiful and a mini pilgrimage to the 'Motherhouse' where Mother Theresa did much of her work.
Just wandering through the streets one could see how run-down everything seemed despite the city being newer than Delhi for example. However, Kolkata although a bit on the rough-looking side has a charm about it which I liked. With minimal congestion or hasslebustle, I was impressed by the Metro system which I had to use to go to my friend's house in preparation for the wedding...
Bengali Wedding
This was a special event. I found the whole affair very interesting, from watching how the bride and groom were separated into different rooms giving the large volume of guests a chance to swarm around and take countless photos. Then they each got fed Gulab Jamun, I guess to help stave off the hunger whilst everyone else was ablt to feast on the fabulous buffet. It actually was the same GJ that finished me off!
After a lot of chatting and admiring of outfits, the evening ended with the ceremony involving the bride hiding her face behind some leaves whilst being carried around the groom re-enacting their 'first meeting' and then swapping garlands before reciting some prayers. I was glad to have had the opportunity to see a Bengali wedding and wear a sari again.
My last few days in the city consisted of more walking, photo-snapping and eating. I grew to feel a bit at home in my matchbox butit was time to move on, to a more mellow destination further south in the state of Orissa to a town called Puri.
The journey to Kolkata was pretty standard, my 'Ladies quota' berth still had men in it but there was a nice family with baby to stare at. Anyway all was well until the end when I put my phone to charge and turned my back for one minute to look at the scenery outsideof the door, only to find that somebody (probably the strange man who appeared from nowehere and squeezed himself into the side berth opposite) had taken it and scarpered. It is a shame really because I always felt at ease on the trains but now I have learnt my lesson not to trust everyone so much and be more vigilent!
Luckily I had mentioned where I was aiming to stay to my friend whom had invited me to Kolkata for a wedding which was the reeason for my trip there in the first place! The Times Guest House, unfortunately not a place for spending much time in. My single room was definitely the most budget so far, a matchbox and a communal bathroom I could just about fit in...my first shower was quite an experience. Thankfully I was saved from despair when my friend turned up at my room, perfect timing. Good food was had at the rather randomly placed Moulin Rouge restaurant where plans for sightseeing and the wedding were discussed.
The first full day in the city was pretty busy, we headed off to be tourists visiting various sights such as the Planetarium with amusing show, Park Street Cemetery which was bizarrely beautiful and a mini pilgrimage to the 'Motherhouse' where Mother Theresa did much of her work.
Bengali Wedding
This was a special event. I found the whole affair very interesting, from watching how the bride and groom were separated into different rooms giving the large volume of guests a chance to swarm around and take countless photos. Then they each got fed Gulab Jamun, I guess to help stave off the hunger whilst everyone else was ablt to feast on the fabulous buffet. It actually was the same GJ that finished me off!
After a lot of chatting and admiring of outfits, the evening ended with the ceremony involving the bride hiding her face behind some leaves whilst being carried around the groom re-enacting their 'first meeting' and then swapping garlands before reciting some prayers. I was glad to have had the opportunity to see a Bengali wedding and wear a sari again.
My last few days in the city consisted of more walking, photo-snapping and eating. I grew to feel a bit at home in my matchbox butit was time to move on, to a more mellow destination further south in the state of Orissa to a town called Puri.
Tuesday 14 September 2010
Phase Two: The Five-Month Volunteers
New Arrivals!
It is amazing how time passes here, at points it felt asif things were dragging in the beginning but then suddenly the time for farewells with the wonderful two-month volunteers came about. It dawned on me what a quick turnover it is between the two groups and before I knew it the next bunch of five-month volunteers were due to arrive. Luckily plans for the Oreintation Week fell into place smoothly using the contactsand similar format to the previous schedule. This was a relief as I was entering the 'second phase' alone without my previous counterpart who decided to withdraw from the programme.
So, without further ado I cracked on and was set to roll in anticipation for the nine new Global Citizens! I was slightly nervous waiting on their arrival date but in fact Ineed not have worried as I received a call from one of them to tell me they had already checked-in to the hostel!! I was very impressed and at the same time felt a bit useless...Still independence was a good sign. I cycled over to be met by their spritely faces, which I also had not expected after I learnt they had planned a day-trip straight from their flight before coming to Pondy. They were going to be just fine.
The welcome meal at my favourite local Salt & Pepper went down welland I walked back home feeling confident that the training ahead with this group would be interesting. Despite most of them having extensively travelled before and many in India, discussion-wise the volunteers seemed very engaged in most sessions and the organisational visits definitely proved thought provoking for them all. At points when energy levels dropped I decided to let the group dictate when they felt they wanted to move some sessions. I think an important part of the IVC role is about gauging when to be flexible and involve the volunteers in decision-making. After all it is about them and for them that I am here, therefore I had noproblems with relaxing the schedule a bit as long as they got what they needed outof the week.
One thing I found a bit difficult was having little time to interact with the group on a social level olutside of sessions, unfortunately once the workshops/visits were over there was no rest for me as I had tomake sure everything was ready and re-confirm arrangements for the following day. Nonetheless there were a couple of occassions I managed to join them all for dinner which they even treated me to one night! This is another aspect of the role which requires the ability tomaintain a professional relationship with them but alsoget to know everyone personally. To be honest I am the sort of person wholikes to relate to people on a level without hierarchalk boundaries, just being open and approachable is what I find works well with most especially when amongst the same age group.
Once the intense week was over, the last day in Pondy was rather chaotic. Having recommended Auroville to the group, I was glad they chose to spend their few hours left there before the upheaval to get everyone to their placements. I on the other hand spent it whizzing around my beloved Ladybird for the last time but en route for my daily dose of cafe frappe, I was struck by a mental motorcyclist who knocked me off my bike causing me to land flat in the road. Rather startled I looked around to see the mad man driving off, I was speechless and shaky but thankfully somebody came to help me prop up Ladybird. At somepoint I realised that my toe was throbbing and as I tried to walk I felt the sharp pain...familiar feeling of a broken bone. My lovely volunteers made aware of the slight mis-hap offered their sympathy. At least we were sat on a train for two days but even getting to that stage was a challenge!
The journey:
Auto - Bus station: flat tyre requiring all to lift vehicle.
Bus - Chennai: Hub cap falls off causing repeated explosive sounds and stoppages for the men to look.
Train - Mumbai: Fine although very early arrival.
Arrival in Mumbai: Headed to dingy Dongri, first hotel no room leading to argument. Second place extortionate but after much haggling the deal was done and the four Udaipur volunteers were able to sleep :)
We spent a pleasant day in the city, strolling around Colaba until the time came to put the remaining lot on their bus...
Taxi - hotel: so much traffic, beginning to panic.
Hotel - station: Cutting it fine and when we got there disaster struck, it was the wrong station!!!
Adrenalin kicked in, bus company luckily called to see where we were and so I pleaded all the way for them to wait. In the end we screeched up, I practically threw myself at the bus and hugged the volunteers goodbye. Off they went, what a relief.
Volunteer Visits
Inevitably I found myself feeling relieved upon arrival once again in Pondy, it is that familiarity which I have grown to appreciate. Since being back in the flat, this time with the new five-month girls I have done some nice little activities. I decided that as part of their assessments I would go in with each of them to their placements and observe their routines. Despite having already been to Angalakuppam (Sharana Village) and Volontariat, this proved to be an effective way of realling putting into context what the placements entail and what the volunteers are experiencing during the programme.
In the village community centre run by women as part of an empowerment project facilitated by Sharana, the activities consist of helping in the creche with Tamil and English rhymes followed by some basic language teaching. The children are so well behaved and I quickly learnt not to judge gender by dress, rather androgenously there were many boys with flowers in their hair and girls in masculine clothes. He hours left were used to teach English to two of the staff there who are perfectly capable of running the project independently but want to feel more confident in their spoken English before doing so.
At Volontariat it was decided I would assist in their creche first thing in the morning which was quite a task. Feeding and drying numerous little ones was not something I am accustomed to but found it enjoyable for an hour and can see why volunteers like it. It did not seem appropriate to sit in on any of the one-to-one English tuition lessons that followed so off I went reflect on the beach nearby. I will try to do this for all my volunteers in their various organisation (DGS and Seva Mandir), it is also a good way for me to feel more involved whilst I visit rather than just sitting on the fence.
Aside from cooking, film-watching and occassionally eating out we were lucky enough to see the celebrations for Gandhi's birthday by the beach one evening which was an interesting cultural experience and most recently we observed some Puja's during our visit to some of the local temples. There is also a music night happening just in good time before I depart for Hampi, where the landscape is very rocky.
It has been quite a while since I posted anything related to work, perhaps the time of year is partly a reason with so many festivals including Diwali – festival of light and the biggest celebration in India. From Hampi I made my way to Pune where once again I stayed in the DGS volunteer accommodation which was rather full when I arrived. The timing of my visit seemed to be during a bit of a trough in terms of the volunteer's workload and aside from going into the office, there was not as much action to observe although plans for the upcoming World AIDS Day actvities were being put into place which the 3 DiA volunteers were very keen to help coordinate. I experienced more of the social side that comes with living in a big, modern and affluent city such as Pune which was a novelty but one which quickly wore thin. I was ready to move on to a more 'authentic' part of the country for the final visit to Udaipur.
It is amazing how time passes here, at points it felt asif things were dragging in the beginning but then suddenly the time for farewells with the wonderful two-month volunteers came about. It dawned on me what a quick turnover it is between the two groups and before I knew it the next bunch of five-month volunteers were due to arrive. Luckily plans for the Oreintation Week fell into place smoothly using the contactsand similar format to the previous schedule. This was a relief as I was entering the 'second phase' alone without my previous counterpart who decided to withdraw from the programme.
So, without further ado I cracked on and was set to roll in anticipation for the nine new Global Citizens! I was slightly nervous waiting on their arrival date but in fact Ineed not have worried as I received a call from one of them to tell me they had already checked-in to the hostel!! I was very impressed and at the same time felt a bit useless...Still independence was a good sign. I cycled over to be met by their spritely faces, which I also had not expected after I learnt they had planned a day-trip straight from their flight before coming to Pondy. They were going to be just fine.
The welcome meal at my favourite local Salt & Pepper went down welland I walked back home feeling confident that the training ahead with this group would be interesting. Despite most of them having extensively travelled before and many in India, discussion-wise the volunteers seemed very engaged in most sessions and the organisational visits definitely proved thought provoking for them all. At points when energy levels dropped I decided to let the group dictate when they felt they wanted to move some sessions. I think an important part of the IVC role is about gauging when to be flexible and involve the volunteers in decision-making. After all it is about them and for them that I am here, therefore I had noproblems with relaxing the schedule a bit as long as they got what they needed outof the week.
One thing I found a bit difficult was having little time to interact with the group on a social level olutside of sessions, unfortunately once the workshops/visits were over there was no rest for me as I had tomake sure everything was ready and re-confirm arrangements for the following day. Nonetheless there were a couple of occassions I managed to join them all for dinner which they even treated me to one night! This is another aspect of the role which requires the ability tomaintain a professional relationship with them but alsoget to know everyone personally. To be honest I am the sort of person wholikes to relate to people on a level without hierarchalk boundaries, just being open and approachable is what I find works well with most especially when amongst the same age group.
Once the intense week was over, the last day in Pondy was rather chaotic. Having recommended Auroville to the group, I was glad they chose to spend their few hours left there before the upheaval to get everyone to their placements. I on the other hand spent it whizzing around my beloved Ladybird for the last time but en route for my daily dose of cafe frappe, I was struck by a mental motorcyclist who knocked me off my bike causing me to land flat in the road. Rather startled I looked around to see the mad man driving off, I was speechless and shaky but thankfully somebody came to help me prop up Ladybird. At somepoint I realised that my toe was throbbing and as I tried to walk I felt the sharp pain...familiar feeling of a broken bone. My lovely volunteers made aware of the slight mis-hap offered their sympathy. At least we were sat on a train for two days but even getting to that stage was a challenge!
The journey:
Auto - Bus station: flat tyre requiring all to lift vehicle.
Bus - Chennai: Hub cap falls off causing repeated explosive sounds and stoppages for the men to look.
Train - Mumbai: Fine although very early arrival.
Arrival in Mumbai: Headed to dingy Dongri, first hotel no room leading to argument. Second place extortionate but after much haggling the deal was done and the four Udaipur volunteers were able to sleep :)
We spent a pleasant day in the city, strolling around Colaba until the time came to put the remaining lot on their bus...
Taxi - hotel: so much traffic, beginning to panic.
Hotel - station: Cutting it fine and when we got there disaster struck, it was the wrong station!!!
Adrenalin kicked in, bus company luckily called to see where we were and so I pleaded all the way for them to wait. In the end we screeched up, I practically threw myself at the bus and hugged the volunteers goodbye. Off they went, what a relief.
Volunteer Visits
Inevitably I found myself feeling relieved upon arrival once again in Pondy, it is that familiarity which I have grown to appreciate. Since being back in the flat, this time with the new five-month girls I have done some nice little activities. I decided that as part of their assessments I would go in with each of them to their placements and observe their routines. Despite having already been to Angalakuppam (Sharana Village) and Volontariat, this proved to be an effective way of realling putting into context what the placements entail and what the volunteers are experiencing during the programme.
In the village community centre run by women as part of an empowerment project facilitated by Sharana, the activities consist of helping in the creche with Tamil and English rhymes followed by some basic language teaching. The children are so well behaved and I quickly learnt not to judge gender by dress, rather androgenously there were many boys with flowers in their hair and girls in masculine clothes. He hours left were used to teach English to two of the staff there who are perfectly capable of running the project independently but want to feel more confident in their spoken English before doing so.
At Volontariat it was decided I would assist in their creche first thing in the morning which was quite a task. Feeding and drying numerous little ones was not something I am accustomed to but found it enjoyable for an hour and can see why volunteers like it. It did not seem appropriate to sit in on any of the one-to-one English tuition lessons that followed so off I went reflect on the beach nearby. I will try to do this for all my volunteers in their various organisation (DGS and Seva Mandir), it is also a good way for me to feel more involved whilst I visit rather than just sitting on the fence.
Aside from cooking, film-watching and occassionally eating out we were lucky enough to see the celebrations for Gandhi's birthday by the beach one evening which was an interesting cultural experience and most recently we observed some Puja's during our visit to some of the local temples. There is also a music night happening just in good time before I depart for Hampi, where the landscape is very rocky.
It has been quite a while since I posted anything related to work, perhaps the time of year is partly a reason with so many festivals including Diwali – festival of light and the biggest celebration in India. From Hampi I made my way to Pune where once again I stayed in the DGS volunteer accommodation which was rather full when I arrived. The timing of my visit seemed to be during a bit of a trough in terms of the volunteer's workload and aside from going into the office, there was not as much action to observe although plans for the upcoming World AIDS Day actvities were being put into place which the 3 DiA volunteers were very keen to help coordinate. I experienced more of the social side that comes with living in a big, modern and affluent city such as Pune which was a novelty but one which quickly wore thin. I was ready to move on to a more 'authentic' part of the country for the final visit to Udaipur.
Monday 30 August 2010
Taking a break in Delhi...
Delhites
Malviya Nagar, South of Delhi city is where my official break off work began. I found myself there after being invited from some friends to stay with them in their beautifully stylish flat in the neighborhood, of course I could not refuse the offer! The area had an almost suburban feel to it with pleasant residential streets and a nice market place coupled with ruins sporadically laid out in the vicinity. We started off well with a house party around the corner (within minutes of my arrival from the overnight sleeper train journey from Pune) followed by a headache. My first full day was spent walking around getting to know the place before dressing up in a Saree and attending an extravagant affair called a 'Teej', a post engagement party for the bride-to-be resembling a classy version of a hen party. We were treated with great care and received many approving looks due to our efforts in dressing appropriately. The ended after many mocktails, music, mendhi and a meal which was not necessary after the assorted canapes we had feasted on! Finally we went home with a beautiful box of sweets and a few female essential accessories :)
Whilst my lovely hosts went to work, I took the time to walk around in the glorious sunshine to see the impressive site of Qutub Minar before more socialising which took place at the flat, some friends of the couple came to celebrate the end of their stay over some ordered-in Indian. They were actually volunteering with a company called Gap Guru which I had never heard of but seemed to have placements all over the World. Everything was delicious but my stomach did not seem to agree....
The next three days were not pretty. I tried to ignore what later became an obviously serious problem. Unable to move except for when nature called and nearly passing out in the process, I was not in any state to be able to step outside even just for fresh air. As it worsened and I became more dehydrated it became apparent that a visit to the doctor was needed. I do not know how but I found it in me to get myself out and made it to the clinic. Diagnosis: Gastroenteritis - nice. Need I say more...
In recovery I chose to find solace by going the Bahai House of Worship, The Lotus Temple. Of course en route it decided to absolutely tip it down and by the time the auto pulled up I was going nowhere. Once the initial downpour subsided I went for it, barefoot and wet I walked down the path to purity. What a stunning sight, so worth the wet. Inside in silence birds could be heard singing whilst visitors worshipped their own different faiths. I finally relaxed. This was to be the last bit of peace before I moved on to Pahaganj the following day.
Main Bazaar
The ride to the tourist hub of the city was great, I felt like I was clearing my mind of all the illness. I had anticipated staying in the same place as I did 7 years prior when I first set foot in the country as a naive 18 year old Gap year traveler. However, the prices which have risen significantly deterred me and so I opted for the cheaper version next door directly on the main road of main bazaar (Paharganj). Now, I am still undecided how I feel about the place, nostalgia initially made me excited about being back in what I felt was really what I call India. But on closer inspection, whereas the shoe shop, sticker man and juice stand were still there, extensive rubble and half-derelict buildings were also featuring in the landscape. Unfortunately the construction taking place looked more like a scene of mass destruction! Not the same place visually but still retained some of it's character. I kept walking into places and suddenly getting flashbacks of havingeaten or shopped there, very confusing.
I had a really good day walking around the backstreets were there was so much more life to see down those winding mud alleys where locals are just going about their daily business, rather than depressing myself glimpsing at the dusty doorways on the main strip. Oh India, for all it's dirt there is still a charm - the people of course. I was delighted when I came across a sweet shop and asked if I could buy just one piece, 'Of course Maam, we are here for you'!
The last day did not quite go according to plan. Mud being the main factor, but also it seemed that it was not only Paharganj under construction. The Crafts Museum which I was very interested in seeing turned out to be be a few run-down exhibits with several demonstrators desperate to sell their goods. Oh well, I had still anticipated Janpath (Tibetan Market), but yet again as I wandered the highways a short burst of drops tumbled down at which point an auto appeared and I decided it best to go back to the paraphernalia of Paharganj where I enjoyed chilling on rooftops, talking to travelers, shopping and eating before the two-day train to Chennai ahead.
Malviya Nagar, South of Delhi city is where my official break off work began. I found myself there after being invited from some friends to stay with them in their beautifully stylish flat in the neighborhood, of course I could not refuse the offer! The area had an almost suburban feel to it with pleasant residential streets and a nice market place coupled with ruins sporadically laid out in the vicinity. We started off well with a house party around the corner (within minutes of my arrival from the overnight sleeper train journey from Pune) followed by a headache. My first full day was spent walking around getting to know the place before dressing up in a Saree and attending an extravagant affair called a 'Teej', a post engagement party for the bride-to-be resembling a classy version of a hen party. We were treated with great care and received many approving looks due to our efforts in dressing appropriately. The ended after many mocktails, music, mendhi and a meal which was not necessary after the assorted canapes we had feasted on! Finally we went home with a beautiful box of sweets and a few female essential accessories :)
Whilst my lovely hosts went to work, I took the time to walk around in the glorious sunshine to see the impressive site of Qutub Minar before more socialising which took place at the flat, some friends of the couple came to celebrate the end of their stay over some ordered-in Indian. They were actually volunteering with a company called Gap Guru which I had never heard of but seemed to have placements all over the World. Everything was delicious but my stomach did not seem to agree....
The next three days were not pretty. I tried to ignore what later became an obviously serious problem. Unable to move except for when nature called and nearly passing out in the process, I was not in any state to be able to step outside even just for fresh air. As it worsened and I became more dehydrated it became apparent that a visit to the doctor was needed. I do not know how but I found it in me to get myself out and made it to the clinic. Diagnosis: Gastroenteritis - nice. Need I say more...
In recovery I chose to find solace by going the Bahai House of Worship, The Lotus Temple. Of course en route it decided to absolutely tip it down and by the time the auto pulled up I was going nowhere. Once the initial downpour subsided I went for it, barefoot and wet I walked down the path to purity. What a stunning sight, so worth the wet. Inside in silence birds could be heard singing whilst visitors worshipped their own different faiths. I finally relaxed. This was to be the last bit of peace before I moved on to Pahaganj the following day.
Main Bazaar
The ride to the tourist hub of the city was great, I felt like I was clearing my mind of all the illness. I had anticipated staying in the same place as I did 7 years prior when I first set foot in the country as a naive 18 year old Gap year traveler. However, the prices which have risen significantly deterred me and so I opted for the cheaper version next door directly on the main road of main bazaar (Paharganj). Now, I am still undecided how I feel about the place, nostalgia initially made me excited about being back in what I felt was really what I call India. But on closer inspection, whereas the shoe shop, sticker man and juice stand were still there, extensive rubble and half-derelict buildings were also featuring in the landscape. Unfortunately the construction taking place looked more like a scene of mass destruction! Not the same place visually but still retained some of it's character. I kept walking into places and suddenly getting flashbacks of havingeaten or shopped there, very confusing.
I had a really good day walking around the backstreets were there was so much more life to see down those winding mud alleys where locals are just going about their daily business, rather than depressing myself glimpsing at the dusty doorways on the main strip. Oh India, for all it's dirt there is still a charm - the people of course. I was delighted when I came across a sweet shop and asked if I could buy just one piece, 'Of course Maam, we are here for you'!
The last day did not quite go according to plan. Mud being the main factor, but also it seemed that it was not only Paharganj under construction. The Crafts Museum which I was very interested in seeing turned out to be be a few run-down exhibits with several demonstrators desperate to sell their goods. Oh well, I had still anticipated Janpath (Tibetan Market), but yet again as I wandered the highways a short burst of drops tumbled down at which point an auto appeared and I decided it best to go back to the paraphernalia of Paharganj where I enjoyed chilling on rooftops, talking to travelers, shopping and eating before the two-day train to Chennai ahead.
Saturday 17 July 2010
My oh Mumbai!
Bollywood
On India's south-west coast lies Mumbai, the city I had dreaded the though before even landing in the country. With a population of 16 million and 55% of which live in slums despite it being the financial capital India, Mumbai in my mind was going to be a challenge. I had envisaged it to be rather like Delhi: a heaving mass of people, insane traffic, cows, dust, beggars, decrepid buildings and a lot of hassle multiplied by 100 times...even as we were pulling up into Central station at 4am I felt a sense of anxiety as I looked out into the monsoon rain and saw nothing but darkness, rubbish and rats. Turning up and relying on sleeping in the rest rooms was not very realistic and of course as soon as we asked where we could find them we were lead to two taxi's and the promise of a cheap room for the remaining 6 of us. Well two additional mattresses on the floor later, our first few hours were somewhat hazy. When I awoke absolutely ravenous I stepped out to see the road lined with dirt and street kids alongside many sweet shops, interesting.
It took some time for us to work out where we were in the city, Dongri – not on the map to be exact. Colaba was the place to be, where the main hub for tourists is situated and of course the location which the famous 'Shantaram' is based. I grew excited by the thought that we may heading out of the Muslim area and into a livelier environment. What a pleasant surprise it was once we picked our hostel down a pretty quiet street next to the coast, I started to take in all of the impressive architecture, nice cafes/restaurants and a general travellers-vibe. Everyone seemed to be friendly and there was not even much hassle as we walked through Colaba market! I had a good feeling about the next few days here, with so much to see and many avenues for entertainment and/or chilling it was turning out to be the respite we needed. A quick browse in the Lonely Planet steered our minds to visiting Baganga Tank, a hidden traffic-free sacred place at the southern tip of Mumbai. We explored the precinct of temples, tiny streets and pilgrim's rest-houses, what a tranquil place perfect for sitting and dreaming.
After sitting peacefully and watching the devotions in the women's only section, I headed back to go on to Mahalaxmi Temple which I had spotted. Little did I know that the boy shouting out on the causeway was a warning...too late the wave hit and I lost balance slipping to the side and almost finding myself along with several Indians out to sea. Oh my goodness, the second we stabilised ourselves everyone ran as fast as possible to avoid the next wave phew! Walking around utterly drenched but smiling I made a friend along the way to the colourful, busy temple. The nice young man bought me a flower to offer Laxmi the goddess of money and we had a little chat/photo exchange. Sometimes you can tell when someone is going to bother you or not and my instincts told me that he was a genuine person interested in learning about my culture.
Other highlights included Mani Bavhan (Gandhi's home), Jehangir Art Gallery, Chowpatty Beach and Leopold's Cafe for the atmosphere and where I sadly sat and read Shantaram which freaked me out as the chapter I was on talked about the inhumane treatment in the prison which is just opposite. But I have to say the ultimate Bombay experience after watching a Bollywood film, was being an extra in one!!! I owe it to my counterpart who was so sweet and let me take the opportunity in her place and I really enjoyed the whole affair. From having hair and make-up done to sitting around watching everyone get ready, seeing the set piece together and finally being called to appear in various clips for a party scene mainly at the front sidelines dancing and admiring the men who jumped around in true Bollywood style. It was a long 12hr day, but a once in a lifetime experience and I realised how much I love Mumbai.
On India's south-west coast lies Mumbai, the city I had dreaded the though before even landing in the country. With a population of 16 million and 55% of which live in slums despite it being the financial capital India, Mumbai in my mind was going to be a challenge. I had envisaged it to be rather like Delhi: a heaving mass of people, insane traffic, cows, dust, beggars, decrepid buildings and a lot of hassle multiplied by 100 times...even as we were pulling up into Central station at 4am I felt a sense of anxiety as I looked out into the monsoon rain and saw nothing but darkness, rubbish and rats. Turning up and relying on sleeping in the rest rooms was not very realistic and of course as soon as we asked where we could find them we were lead to two taxi's and the promise of a cheap room for the remaining 6 of us. Well two additional mattresses on the floor later, our first few hours were somewhat hazy. When I awoke absolutely ravenous I stepped out to see the road lined with dirt and street kids alongside many sweet shops, interesting.
It took some time for us to work out where we were in the city, Dongri – not on the map to be exact. Colaba was the place to be, where the main hub for tourists is situated and of course the location which the famous 'Shantaram' is based. I grew excited by the thought that we may heading out of the Muslim area and into a livelier environment. What a pleasant surprise it was once we picked our hostel down a pretty quiet street next to the coast, I started to take in all of the impressive architecture, nice cafes/restaurants and a general travellers-vibe. Everyone seemed to be friendly and there was not even much hassle as we walked through Colaba market! I had a good feeling about the next few days here, with so much to see and many avenues for entertainment and/or chilling it was turning out to be the respite we needed. A quick browse in the Lonely Planet steered our minds to visiting Baganga Tank, a hidden traffic-free sacred place at the southern tip of Mumbai. We explored the precinct of temples, tiny streets and pilgrim's rest-houses, what a tranquil place perfect for sitting and dreaming.
The following day we took a trip to Elephanta Island, a one hour boat journey which was a rather rocky ride at times but upon arrival I could see why it was worth the wet. The sculpted cave-temples were beautifully scattered and the first one containing a huge Sadhashiva depicting Shiva as the destroyer, creator and preserver of the universe was impressive.
Another sight worth seeing was Haji Ali's Mosque I had read about in Shantaram and decided one early morning to catch the bus there. When I heard it described as a floating shrine, I realised the extent to which it reached out into the Arabian Sea. Along the causeway filled with pilgrims, the waves crashed and were followed by excited shrieks.
After sitting peacefully and watching the devotions in the women's only section, I headed back to go on to Mahalaxmi Temple which I had spotted. Little did I know that the boy shouting out on the causeway was a warning...too late the wave hit and I lost balance slipping to the side and almost finding myself along with several Indians out to sea. Oh my goodness, the second we stabilised ourselves everyone ran as fast as possible to avoid the next wave phew! Walking around utterly drenched but smiling I made a friend along the way to the colourful, busy temple. The nice young man bought me a flower to offer Laxmi the goddess of money and we had a little chat/photo exchange. Sometimes you can tell when someone is going to bother you or not and my instincts told me that he was a genuine person interested in learning about my culture.
Saturday 3 July 2010
IVC Work
Pre-Orientation
Playing tourist was short-lived when began a few days after our arrival. It is a strange concept to get my head around that the role of an IVC exists on working hours defined by ourselves and the office is currently the dining table although this will change once on the move escorting the keen volunteers to their placements and conducting various partner and volunteer assessments, updating medical emergency plans and completing reports to go back to the UK as part of the monitoring and evaluation aspect of DiA's India volunteer programme.
Currently it's all been about planning, arranging meetings to discuss venues and visits, communicating with partners, establishing contact with the volunteers, brainstorming workshop ideas, creating language lesson plans all I preparation for the Orientation week designed to train the prospective summer global citizens for life in India. As IVC's we will live, breath and sleep Orientation week and once it is over it does not stop there with the constant movement from one placement to the next until the second set of five month volunteers arrive which for us means round two of all of the above!
Playing tourist was short-lived when began a few days after our arrival. It is a strange concept to get my head around that the role of an IVC exists on working hours defined by ourselves and the office is currently the dining table although this will change once on the move escorting the keen volunteers to their placements and conducting various partner and volunteer assessments, updating medical emergency plans and completing reports to go back to the UK as part of the monitoring and evaluation aspect of DiA's India volunteer programme.
Currently it's all been about planning, arranging meetings to discuss venues and visits, communicating with partners, establishing contact with the volunteers, brainstorming workshop ideas, creating language lesson plans all I preparation for the Orientation week designed to train the prospective summer global citizens for life in India. As IVC's we will live, breath and sleep Orientation week and once it is over it does not stop there with the constant movement from one placement to the next until the second set of five month volunteers arrive which for us means round two of all of the above!
So after almost a full week's concentration, brainstorming and a successful meeting, much progress has been made. The orientation week is shaping up and it looks as if our prospective volunteers will gain a lot out of the workshops, activities, talks and visits we have prepared for them. Cultural awareness and managing expectations are key in encouraging realistic ideas and goals thus hopefully ensuring more fulfilling experiences for all involved from the partner and volunteer perspective.
Just one meeting held with the Director of an amazing organisation called Sharana, gave a great insight into the role of NGO's in India and the extent of outreach activities, social work as well as micro-finance schemes which aim to benefit physically abused and neglected women. We met some wonderful girls who were previously in terrible abusive situations within their families and with the help of the organisation have been given the chance to rebuild their lives by being trained to bake and sell their goods through an outlet which brought them income. The girls were remarkable, everything done with smiles on their beautiful faces and positivity was expressed through their body language. Bless them.
I am so intrigued to meet the 8 individuals who will be counting on us entirely to orientate, train and support them over the course of the programme. It should be an interesting time getting to know their characters, hopes, fears and reasons for choosing this experience over the many other voluntary opportunities there are available Internationally. This will be a special time of their lives that they are going to undergo and I am very happy to be a part of that, as a distant observer watching them grow as well as learning about different organisations, gaining more in-depth knowledge about the various cultures in India and how the voluntary sector fits into society.
Two weeks on and all our plans for the different organisational visits and language teachers are confirmed as well as the content of our workshops which I think we have tailored well according to the travel/voluntary experience our volunteers claim to have. It has been pretty straightforward aside from a few peculiar meetings in the street with a very manic Hindi teacher and trying to track down a Father of an Ashram which takes care of HIV/AIDS patients...but succeeded in the end as always these things come together and someone will know somebody else who can get hold of the person you are looking for! I love this role, so varied so far and we have not even left Pondicherry.
Now everything just needs to roll during Orientation and fingers crossed there will be no issues with the volunteer placements which I must say am quite jealous of some of them as they sound so exciting I really wouldn't mind volunteering myself. Perhaps I will have the opportunity with some of them after our job here with our volunteers is done 6 months down the line...
Orientation Week
Suffice to say that the much anticipated and intense week, from the volunteer arrivals to drop-off's went remarkably well. The mission began with meeting them inside the main bus station which I was tasked to do whilst my counterpart lined up the auto's ready for a swift exit. I had a nerve-wrecking moment when I realised how big the station was and couldn't spot the group for what seemed like far too long before I finally saw their white heads and was greeted with a beaming smile from whom later turned out to be one of the leaders of the pack. I totally forgot how scarily fast and carelessly the buses moved inside the station and realised when I turned to check behind me that a few were running around avoiding the big clanky vehicles. Anyway after the inevitable series of rows with our drivers we got them checked in at the Hotel which which was run by the Ashram, a clean, safe place complete with a 10.30pm curfew to keep everyone in order (also preventing us from unnecessary IVC worry). Following some rest-time, we treated the exhausted group to an Indian meal at our favourite local which turned out well despite them piling on additional sides throughout which hadn't been ordered, everyone chatted and got excited about the week ahead before going to bed.
The first official day was not as daunting as I had expected and the most significant sessions about what to expect from us as their Coordinators as well as Cultural Awareness and dealing with shock seemed do go down well without any qualms.
We also covered sessions surrounding expectations which is so important to address from an early stage and without scaring the volunteers which can be quite difficult but it is to ensure that everyone enters their placements with open-minds and realistic goals with a level of flexibility. It makes one think about what volunteering is all about and what makes a good placement. These days are so many organisations who do not care so much about the quality of their candidates but whether they can pay for the experience and usually extortionate amounts. The good thing about DiA is that being totally non-profit, the amount required from each volunteer for the two month placements is relatively small and most goes to the partners themselves to cover accommodation and food etc. Nonetheless bearing in mind that they have raised an amount it is only natural that there will be some hopes for what they will gain out of the India Placement Scheme. We tried our best to provide introductory language workshops and aside from one teacher being too much hassle for what it was worth and not showing up on the day, the classes went ok and provided a platform for the volunteers to go away and learn more! The OW was as much a learning experience for me as it was for everyone else, I enjoyed facilitating discussions on sensitive issues relevent to India and the role of NGO's as well as encouraging more playful activities including a Scavenger Hunt and Bollywood dance class which were very popular indeed.
By the end, my body had decided that it was time to stop and luckily all we had left to do after the evaluation was a mammoth train journey. I am very grateful for all of the constructive comments we received, none of which were negative towards the way we delivered aspects of the orientation. Overall it looks as if the same formula would be appropriate to use for the second group in September depending on the availability of our key speakers. So, in the end we left two of the girls behind in the cherished Pondicherry flat and made it to Mumbai after much reading, eating and dozing on the good old sleeper train. Arriving at 4am without any accommodation due to all of them being full-up was not the best situation but as always anything is possible and in no time the six of us were packed into a room of four! Hours later, the next two girls moved on to catch their second train to Udaipur whilst we escorted our remaining boys to St Gonsalo's an orphanage a local train ride away from Mumbai and that was that...farewell to the volunteers until the visits start soon.
On the move...
From Pondy to Bombay, Udaipur and back to Bombay, the IVC rounds are in full swing and yet to be completed by a return to Pondy before reaching the final destination – Pune. In terms of time management, I became quite accustomed to this in my previous job. Project plans, meeting preps, to-do lists, diary management along with the rest that came in handy as an Events Coordinator. Planning routes and fitting in everything that needs to be done within each place however is somewhat more interesting. Working out the journey times from one to the next, settling in for a day and then proceeding with the the logistics of how and when the Medical Emergency Plans (MEP's), Risk Assessments and Volunteer reports will take place within the allocated time before the next booked train out to another town, with two more volunteers and an equally impressive NGO to learn about. In this job, once you make a plan you really have to stick to it.
Unfortunately since arriving in Udaipur, the significant amount of time to spare has not been used so productively. The main factor being illness, one of the things about moving around in short bursts is the change of food and climate, because each state varies profoundly. My yoga teacher today confirmed that in Rajasthan and particularly Udaipur, the most amount of spices and oil is used in all of the food. Well, to be honest the thick layers of Ghee in every dish was pretty evident and had been the focus of the problem being my stomach. From day 1 here things weren't right, I managed to develop a fever and subsequent cold on the overnight train at the same time as a pain building up inside my abdomen. The few days to follow were pretty terrible, too weak to walk, too blocked up to think and too scared to eat...a disastrous combination which of course has now resulted in my shocking physical transformation, resembling the time when I had suffered with amoebic dysentery.
Despite this drawback, we met with our first pair of volunteers who are doing research projects for a brilliant organisation called Seva Mandir which focuses on empowerment of women (see description for further details). I realised why this is another great part of the job, in just over two weeks since their Orientation you can see how much the volunteers have developed in terms of confidence, knowledge of Indian Culture and the work which they are involved in. Assessments aside, when you see their faces alive with new experiences and stories to match, it emphasises how valuable a programme like this can and should be. Luckily they both get along and have had no problems, mentally or physically despite one of them feeling terribly homesick right at the beginning and the other having a traumatic experience involving a rat in a bed which they both dealt with very bravely, I feel proud of them! By supplementing the work that is already being carried out, adding capacity to an organisation and learning new skills is beneficial to both the Indian partners and the volunteers. Sustainable volunteering and development education are at the heart of DiA. Now we can see for ourselves, as IVC's watching everyone grow even more into fine young Global Citizens.
The second set based in a special orphanage of 80 boys called St Gonsalo's - a 1hr local train and bus ride from Mumbai, blew me away as we saw them teaching their respective classes in smart shirts and looking very professional indeed. It seemed that the staff at St Gonsalo's Ashram were all besotted with the DiA boys and were finding ways to convince them to stay which was really touching. It was brought to our attention that in order for the work done by the volunteers to be more sustainable, placements for 5 months would be much more ideal. Nonetheless it was clear the impact the volunteers were having on the lives of so many and so directly that of all the DiA placements this one is particularly unique. Whatever the reasons for why the children became orphans and the fact that it used to be a catholic run place have no bearing on the reasons why this programme should not help similar organisations. Despite living in a bit of a rural bubble, the volunteers are fully immersed into Indian culture, eating local food and communicating with people from different ages and backgrounds on a daily basis. The children learn various subjects which may not have been taught due to lack of teachers and the existing teachers also pick up on different methods of class delivery. Furthermore the caretaker is one of the most dedicated men I have seen, looking after the good of the orphanage and every single one of those kids for their futures to be brighter in the long-run.
From Mumbai we headed on to Pondicherry, back to the peaceful place we started in and the beloved DiA flat complete with two more volunteers to share some time with! It was a lovely week, strolling along the coastline was a novelty once again and we realised how much more intense the heat was there. Being able to walk everywhere really makes a difference . I sorted out some plans for the forthcoming 5 month volunteer's Orientation Week and also took a trip back to Auroville where I was invited to an interview for a Monitoring and Evaluation internship with Auroville Village Action Group which I am very interested in doing next year once the role with DiA terminates.
It was also good to learn more about what the girls are up to in their placements. Sharana were preparing for their 10 year anniversary event due to take place over 3 days the following week, which understandably seemed to consume much of the staff's time including our volunteer's who would otherwise have been teaching English to a key member of one of the village centres we had previously visited as well as doing after school sessions at the office. At Volontariat it became apparent that they had decided to assign our volunteer to be the English 'Professor' and give one-to-one tuition to several staff in the organisation. These were certainly unexpected roles but nonethless the girls have dealt with their work very patiently and positively, realising that this will of course be adding capacity to the organisations and be a valuable learning experience for them too. A couple of dinners at Mr Bean's and some smiley exchanges with our neighbours later, it was time to head on to the final destination of our volunteer visits - Pune.
Orientation Week
Suffice to say that the much anticipated and intense week, from the volunteer arrivals to drop-off's went remarkably well. The mission began with meeting them inside the main bus station which I was tasked to do whilst my counterpart lined up the auto's ready for a swift exit. I had a nerve-wrecking moment when I realised how big the station was and couldn't spot the group for what seemed like far too long before I finally saw their white heads and was greeted with a beaming smile from whom later turned out to be one of the leaders of the pack. I totally forgot how scarily fast and carelessly the buses moved inside the station and realised when I turned to check behind me that a few were running around avoiding the big clanky vehicles. Anyway after the inevitable series of rows with our drivers we got them checked in at the Hotel which which was run by the Ashram, a clean, safe place complete with a 10.30pm curfew to keep everyone in order (also preventing us from unnecessary IVC worry). Following some rest-time, we treated the exhausted group to an Indian meal at our favourite local which turned out well despite them piling on additional sides throughout which hadn't been ordered, everyone chatted and got excited about the week ahead before going to bed.
The first official day was not as daunting as I had expected and the most significant sessions about what to expect from us as their Coordinators as well as Cultural Awareness and dealing with shock seemed do go down well without any qualms.
Day 2, 3 and 4 consisted of a series of visits to some DiA partners such as Sharana Village and Volontariat as well as a fascinating talk at Arul Ashram for HIV/AIDS sufferers.
For further details of DiA's partner organisations see links below:
http://www.sharana.org/
http://www.arul.ashram.free.fr/
http://www.volontariat-inde.org/
http://www.sharana.org/
http://www.arul.ashram.free.fr/
http://www.volontariat-inde.org/
We also covered sessions surrounding expectations which is so important to address from an early stage and without scaring the volunteers which can be quite difficult but it is to ensure that everyone enters their placements with open-minds and realistic goals with a level of flexibility. It makes one think about what volunteering is all about and what makes a good placement. These days are so many organisations who do not care so much about the quality of their candidates but whether they can pay for the experience and usually extortionate amounts. The good thing about DiA is that being totally non-profit, the amount required from each volunteer for the two month placements is relatively small and most goes to the partners themselves to cover accommodation and food etc. Nonetheless bearing in mind that they have raised an amount it is only natural that there will be some hopes for what they will gain out of the India Placement Scheme. We tried our best to provide introductory language workshops and aside from one teacher being too much hassle for what it was worth and not showing up on the day, the classes went ok and provided a platform for the volunteers to go away and learn more! The OW was as much a learning experience for me as it was for everyone else, I enjoyed facilitating discussions on sensitive issues relevent to India and the role of NGO's as well as encouraging more playful activities including a Scavenger Hunt and Bollywood dance class which were very popular indeed.
By the end, my body had decided that it was time to stop and luckily all we had left to do after the evaluation was a mammoth train journey. I am very grateful for all of the constructive comments we received, none of which were negative towards the way we delivered aspects of the orientation. Overall it looks as if the same formula would be appropriate to use for the second group in September depending on the availability of our key speakers. So, in the end we left two of the girls behind in the cherished Pondicherry flat and made it to Mumbai after much reading, eating and dozing on the good old sleeper train. Arriving at 4am without any accommodation due to all of them being full-up was not the best situation but as always anything is possible and in no time the six of us were packed into a room of four! Hours later, the next two girls moved on to catch their second train to Udaipur whilst we escorted our remaining boys to St Gonsalo's an orphanage a local train ride away from Mumbai and that was that...farewell to the volunteers until the visits start soon.
On the move...
From Pondy to Bombay, Udaipur and back to Bombay, the IVC rounds are in full swing and yet to be completed by a return to Pondy before reaching the final destination – Pune. In terms of time management, I became quite accustomed to this in my previous job. Project plans, meeting preps, to-do lists, diary management along with the rest that came in handy as an Events Coordinator. Planning routes and fitting in everything that needs to be done within each place however is somewhat more interesting. Working out the journey times from one to the next, settling in for a day and then proceeding with the the logistics of how and when the Medical Emergency Plans (MEP's), Risk Assessments and Volunteer reports will take place within the allocated time before the next booked train out to another town, with two more volunteers and an equally impressive NGO to learn about. In this job, once you make a plan you really have to stick to it.
Unfortunately since arriving in Udaipur, the significant amount of time to spare has not been used so productively. The main factor being illness, one of the things about moving around in short bursts is the change of food and climate, because each state varies profoundly. My yoga teacher today confirmed that in Rajasthan and particularly Udaipur, the most amount of spices and oil is used in all of the food. Well, to be honest the thick layers of Ghee in every dish was pretty evident and had been the focus of the problem being my stomach. From day 1 here things weren't right, I managed to develop a fever and subsequent cold on the overnight train at the same time as a pain building up inside my abdomen. The few days to follow were pretty terrible, too weak to walk, too blocked up to think and too scared to eat...a disastrous combination which of course has now resulted in my shocking physical transformation, resembling the time when I had suffered with amoebic dysentery.
Despite this drawback, we met with our first pair of volunteers who are doing research projects for a brilliant organisation called Seva Mandir which focuses on empowerment of women (see description for further details). I realised why this is another great part of the job, in just over two weeks since their Orientation you can see how much the volunteers have developed in terms of confidence, knowledge of Indian Culture and the work which they are involved in. Assessments aside, when you see their faces alive with new experiences and stories to match, it emphasises how valuable a programme like this can and should be. Luckily they both get along and have had no problems, mentally or physically despite one of them feeling terribly homesick right at the beginning and the other having a traumatic experience involving a rat in a bed which they both dealt with very bravely, I feel proud of them! By supplementing the work that is already being carried out, adding capacity to an organisation and learning new skills is beneficial to both the Indian partners and the volunteers. Sustainable volunteering and development education are at the heart of DiA. Now we can see for ourselves, as IVC's watching everyone grow even more into fine young Global Citizens.
The second set based in a special orphanage of 80 boys called St Gonsalo's - a 1hr local train and bus ride from Mumbai, blew me away as we saw them teaching their respective classes in smart shirts and looking very professional indeed. It seemed that the staff at St Gonsalo's Ashram were all besotted with the DiA boys and were finding ways to convince them to stay which was really touching. It was brought to our attention that in order for the work done by the volunteers to be more sustainable, placements for 5 months would be much more ideal. Nonetheless it was clear the impact the volunteers were having on the lives of so many and so directly that of all the DiA placements this one is particularly unique. Whatever the reasons for why the children became orphans and the fact that it used to be a catholic run place have no bearing on the reasons why this programme should not help similar organisations. Despite living in a bit of a rural bubble, the volunteers are fully immersed into Indian culture, eating local food and communicating with people from different ages and backgrounds on a daily basis. The children learn various subjects which may not have been taught due to lack of teachers and the existing teachers also pick up on different methods of class delivery. Furthermore the caretaker is one of the most dedicated men I have seen, looking after the good of the orphanage and every single one of those kids for their futures to be brighter in the long-run.
From Mumbai we headed on to Pondicherry, back to the peaceful place we started in and the beloved DiA flat complete with two more volunteers to share some time with! It was a lovely week, strolling along the coastline was a novelty once again and we realised how much more intense the heat was there. Being able to walk everywhere really makes a difference . I sorted out some plans for the forthcoming 5 month volunteer's Orientation Week and also took a trip back to Auroville where I was invited to an interview for a Monitoring and Evaluation internship with Auroville Village Action Group which I am very interested in doing next year once the role with DiA terminates.
It was also good to learn more about what the girls are up to in their placements. Sharana were preparing for their 10 year anniversary event due to take place over 3 days the following week, which understandably seemed to consume much of the staff's time including our volunteer's who would otherwise have been teaching English to a key member of one of the village centres we had previously visited as well as doing after school sessions at the office. At Volontariat it became apparent that they had decided to assign our volunteer to be the English 'Professor' and give one-to-one tuition to several staff in the organisation. These were certainly unexpected roles but nonethless the girls have dealt with their work very patiently and positively, realising that this will of course be adding capacity to the organisations and be a valuable learning experience for them too. A couple of dinners at Mr Bean's and some smiley exchanges with our neighbours later, it was time to head on to the final destination of our volunteer visits - Pune.
My expectations of Pune were quite high, imagining it to be a vibrant, modern and cosmopolitan city. It was very built-up, mainly consisiting of wealthy residential areas and commercial stores. The prices of hostels reflected this and we decided to stay at the volunteer accommodation, the Deep Griha Cultural Centre which turned out to be the best option, run by some wonderful women and including home-cooked food daily. DGS as an organisation itself is very active especially in the area of HIV/AIDS awareness-raising. With a rolling register of volunteers and so many inititiatives, campaigns and groups to be part of I really got a sense of the outreach which DGS acheives in the slums of Pune and beyond.
Tuesday 22 June 2010
Pondi
Pondi a.k.a Puducherry is a peculiar Indian/French coastal town existing as an ex-colony boasting various institutions such as the French Lycee, Alliance Francais as well as a range of restaurants such as Le Club serving European cuisine with an Indian twist.
7 years ago when I first visited Pondi I did not really take to it well, for me the thought of eating croissants in India was ludicrous especially after having been to more authentic places such a Delhi. I had also been longing to be by the sea after enduring a 3 day train journey (north – south) and hanging around in hectic urban metro-poles, so understandably the rocky shores unfit for bathing in did not suffice.
7 years ago when I first visited Pondi I did not really take to it well, for me the thought of eating croissants in India was ludicrous especially after having been to more authentic places such a Delhi. I had also been longing to be by the sea after enduring a 3 day train journey (north – south) and hanging around in hectic urban metro-poles, so understandably the rocky shores unfit for bathing in did not suffice.
However times have changed and so have I, so far during the month of June 2010 Pondi has proved to be an accommodating and charismatic place. On the first day which was a pretty full-on orientation, we walked along the beloved coastline which had not transformed into an idyllic beach but noticeably a place where locals socialise, couples look out into the waves, young men sit as close to the edge as possible without being dragged out and of course most importantly where the numerous ice-cream and fruit vendors make a living. Whilst marching around in the intense humidity, we came across the filming of what looked like an advertisement...free entertainment for the whole town!
Day 2 we went to the infamous Sri Aurobindo Ashram, where people go to worship 'The Mother' who was the brainchild of Auroville which I shall definitely be finding myself wandering around soon with details to follow. Not forgetting the beautiful Sri Vinayagar temple which has an elephant standing at the entrance ready to bless those who hand over their rupees. We ventured into the Sunday market desperately looking for fresh fruit and veg which were nowhere to be seen amongst the paraphernalia until a man with a plastic bag full of delights was spotted and he pointed us in the right direction, breakfasts and lunches in the flat sorted! Along the way we came across a Mother Theresa centre and later witnessed a birthday celebration apparently for a Minister of some sort.
In this short space of time, Pondi has grown on me and seems like quite an appealing alternative, which is lucky as I will be residing in this peaceful little neighbourhood for a few more weeks...time to get stuck into work now.
Arrival
After a mammoth 24 hours of travelling from London, I finally arrived in Chennai (Madras) in the evening where I was met by the oven heat and a true Indian welcome as I peered from the cab to see the hectic, noisy city and remembered how overwhelming they really are.
Following much debate with the driver over the location of my destination, I thankfully found myself at the right hostel down a dark and dusty road lined with street dwellers which seemed to be predominantly women and lethargic children. So at Broadlands Lodge I met Harriet, my colleague to be for the next 6 months who I had asked to wait for me in view of the flight cancellation and it was great to see a friendly face. After a catch up and realisation that I had arrived in India when I saw our bathroom across the way, finally after all the build up and frustration backed by a long journey I relaxed and slept deeply under the whirring fan...
8am rise to catch the bus for Pondicherry where we would be planning and conducting the volunteer orientation training week. The process of getting from the hostel to the station and beyond seemed to flow remarkably smoothly, despite a bit of haggling with the auto-rickshaw and getting stuck inside it with my oversized backpack. 3.5 hours and more sleep later we jumped out at the bus station in Pondi and called our landlord to signal our arrival. Outside the Handmade Paper Factory was our meeting point and where we were greeted by Mr P, a lovely man on a moped who to my surprise took us one by one on his vehicle showing the route to the flat along the way. The flat itself is more then I could have asked for really, nice living space comprising of two beds, kitchen and table (our office) and a bedroom including another 2 beds with access to balcony overlooking the neighbourhood and bathroom. Perfect, a place to call home!
Following much debate with the driver over the location of my destination, I thankfully found myself at the right hostel down a dark and dusty road lined with street dwellers which seemed to be predominantly women and lethargic children. So at Broadlands Lodge I met Harriet, my colleague to be for the next 6 months who I had asked to wait for me in view of the flight cancellation and it was great to see a friendly face. After a catch up and realisation that I had arrived in India when I saw our bathroom across the way, finally after all the build up and frustration backed by a long journey I relaxed and slept deeply under the whirring fan...
8am rise to catch the bus for Pondicherry where we would be planning and conducting the volunteer orientation training week. The process of getting from the hostel to the station and beyond seemed to flow remarkably smoothly, despite a bit of haggling with the auto-rickshaw and getting stuck inside it with my oversized backpack. 3.5 hours and more sleep later we jumped out at the bus station in Pondi and called our landlord to signal our arrival. Outside the Handmade Paper Factory was our meeting point and where we were greeted by Mr P, a lovely man on a moped who to my surprise took us one by one on his vehicle showing the route to the flat along the way. The flat itself is more then I could have asked for really, nice living space comprising of two beds, kitchen and table (our office) and a bedroom including another 2 beds with access to balcony overlooking the neighbourhood and bathroom. Perfect, a place to call home!
Wednesday 9 June 2010
InDiA
I have just over 1 week to go before embarking on a new exciting adventure in the fascinating country known as India! What will I be doing there you are probably wondering, having previously travelled pretty much all over India during my 'GAP' year sometime ago, the prospect of being able to return and give something back by working there is an amazing one!
So along came Development in Action also known as DiA, a UK registered volunteer and youth-led charity which exists to promote global citizenship by improving understanding and encouraging engagement in development issues amongst young people in the UK. These aims are achieved through the India and UK Volunteering Programmes as well as other activties which you can see for yourself by visiting the website.
Every year volunteers are recruited by DiA for its India Volunteer Placement Scheme. Volunteers particpating in the scheme opt for either a 2-month or 5-month placement during which they are placed with Indian Partner Organisations who focus on grassroots development initiatives and require additional support with their valuable work. My role with DiA offically titled as India Volunteer Coordinator will be to coordinate the India Volunteer Placement Scheme from the ground, alongside another lovely lady acting as the first point of contact for all of the volunteers and partners for the duration of the programme! We will be training the keen new arrivals and ensuring that all runs smoothly by monitoring both the partner and volunteer side of things, carrying out numerous assessments and evaluations. As if this didn't sound daunting enough, the placements which the job requires frequent travel to are pretty scattered around the country. Initially I will be based in Pondicherry for the first few weeks after which I will be working on the move and the office will become our backpacks!
So watch this space people, IVC's in InDiA coming soon...
So along came Development in Action also known as DiA, a UK registered volunteer and youth-led charity which exists to promote global citizenship by improving understanding and encouraging engagement in development issues amongst young people in the UK. These aims are achieved through the India and UK Volunteering Programmes as well as other activties which you can see for yourself by visiting the website.
Every year volunteers are recruited by DiA for its India Volunteer Placement Scheme. Volunteers particpating in the scheme opt for either a 2-month or 5-month placement during which they are placed with Indian Partner Organisations who focus on grassroots development initiatives and require additional support with their valuable work. My role with DiA offically titled as India Volunteer Coordinator will be to coordinate the India Volunteer Placement Scheme from the ground, alongside another lovely lady acting as the first point of contact for all of the volunteers and partners for the duration of the programme! We will be training the keen new arrivals and ensuring that all runs smoothly by monitoring both the partner and volunteer side of things, carrying out numerous assessments and evaluations. As if this didn't sound daunting enough, the placements which the job requires frequent travel to are pretty scattered around the country. Initially I will be based in Pondicherry for the first few weeks after which I will be working on the move and the office will become our backpacks!
So watch this space people, IVC's in InDiA coming soon...
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