Monday 30 August 2010

Taking a break in Delhi...

Delhites

Malviya Nagar, South of Delhi city is where my official break off work began.  I found myself there after being invited from some friends to stay with them in their beautifully stylish flat in the neighborhood, of course I could not refuse the offer!  The area had an almost suburban feel to it with pleasant residential streets and a nice market place coupled with ruins sporadically laid out in the vicinity.  We started off well with a house party around the corner (within minutes of my arrival from the overnight sleeper train journey from Pune) followed by a headache.  My first full day was spent walking around getting to know the place before dressing up in a Saree and attending an extravagant affair called a 'Teej', a post engagement party for the bride-to-be resembling a classy version of a hen party.  We were treated with great care and received many approving looks due to our efforts in dressing appropriately.  The ended after many mocktails, music, mendhi and a meal which was not necessary after the assorted canapes we had feasted on!  Finally we went home with a beautiful box of sweets and a few female essential accessories :)
Whilst my lovely hosts went to work, I took the time to walk around in the glorious sunshine to see the impressive site of Qutub Minar before more socialising which took place at the flat, some friends of the couple came to celebrate the end of their stay over some ordered-in Indian.  They were actually volunteering with a company called Gap Guru which I had never heard of but seemed to have placements all over the World.  Everything was delicious but my stomach did not seem to agree....
The next three days were not pretty.  I tried to ignore what later became an obviously serious problem.  Unable to move except for when nature called and nearly passing out in the process, I was not in any state to be able to step outside even just for fresh air.  As it worsened and I became more dehydrated it became apparent that a visit to the doctor was needed.  I do not know how but I found it in me to get myself out and made it to the clinic.  Diagnosis: Gastroenteritis - nice.  Need I say more...
In recovery I chose to find solace by going the Bahai House of Worship, The Lotus Temple.  Of course en route it decided to absolutely tip it down and by the time the auto pulled up I was going nowhere.  Once the initial downpour subsided I went for it, barefoot and wet I walked down the path to purity.  What a stunning sight, so worth the wet.  Inside in silence birds could be heard singing whilst visitors worshipped their own different faiths.  I finally relaxed.  This was to be the last bit of peace before I moved on to Pahaganj the following day.

Main Bazaar

The ride to the tourist hub of the city was great, I felt like I was clearing my mind of all the illness.  I had anticipated staying in the same place as I did 7 years prior when I first set foot in the country as a naive 18 year old Gap year traveler.  However, the prices which have risen significantly deterred me and so I opted for the cheaper version next door directly on the main road of main bazaar (Paharganj).  Now, I am still undecided how I feel about the place, nostalgia initially made me excited about being back in what I felt was really what I call India.  But on closer inspection, whereas the shoe shop, sticker man and juice stand were still there, extensive rubble and half-derelict buildings were also featuring in the landscape.  Unfortunately the construction taking place looked more like a scene of mass destruction!   Not the same place visually but still retained some of it's character.  I kept walking into places and suddenly getting flashbacks of havingeaten or shopped there, very confusing.
I had a really good day walking around the backstreets were there was so much more life to see down those winding mud alleys where locals are just going about their daily business, rather than depressing myself glimpsing at the dusty doorways on the main strip. Oh India, for all it's dirt there is still a charm - the people of course.  I was delighted when I came across a sweet shop and asked if I could buy just one piece, 'Of course Maam, we are here for you'!
The last day did not quite go according to plan.  Mud being the main factor, but also it seemed that it was not only Paharganj under construction.  The Crafts Museum which I was very interested in seeing turned out to be be a few run-down exhibits with several demonstrators desperate to sell their goods.  Oh well, I had still anticipated Janpath (Tibetan Market), but yet again as I wandered the highways a short burst of drops tumbled down at which point an auto appeared and I decided it best to go back to the paraphernalia of Paharganj where I enjoyed chilling on rooftops, talking to travelers, shopping and eating before the two-day train to Chennai ahead.

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