Farewell

Incredible India


So the time came to bid farewell to India, what an incredible 10 months it has been! Leaving as abruptly as I arrived by taking a flight on the spur of the moment seemed absolutely the right way to end my journey.  This experience started out as an exciting work opportunity.  In his regard, my expectations of being an IVC for DiA were certainly met and exceeded with the additional responsibility of taking on the role and India volunteer programme solo.

Upon reflection, the varied and chaotic months not only presented an interesting new work ethic but also provided a period of personal growth, mental stimulation and letting go of barriers which had been holding me back for far too long.

Little by little, whether it be an overnight train or bus journey, cycling around on a Ladybird push-bike, sitting on the back of an Enfield or simply stomping around by foot, I progressively explored a fraction of some of India's stunning states which I felt very privileged to be in a position to do.  Not only did I uncover lush landscapes such as beaches, backwaters and rocky hills, I also learnt more about different styles of yoga whenever the opportunity arose and most importantly developed an increased awareness of my capabilities.

It was as if being in India had given me a freedom pass to be the person I am comfortable expressing, without judgement.  It did help being part of the several groups comprising of my volunteers and in turn being introduced into their social networks.  For a period of time it was fun hopping from one group to another with intermittent gaps of solitude which were sometimes needed.

The thing about India which is what struck me the first time I visited as a naive gap year teen, is the constant paradoxes that remind me of why I was drawn to coming again and most likely will revisit over and over.  Let me not get into the bartering culture which quite frankly despite being a hassle I always actually enjoyed.  The infamous head wobble became incorporated into my method of communication and despite not spending enough time in each state to get a good grasp of the multitude of languages, I can say that I have gained a much deeper comprehension of how things do/don't work in India to get by.  Do not search for explanations, just accept and whether you like it or not most Indians will have a very big smile on their faces the most I have seen of any culture.

Of course I experienced major highs and lows, this is natural in a country of extremes with less boundaries in some respects but restrictions evident in the form of hardships which were at times difficult to witness.  During my time in India, I was surprised at the extent of change the country appeared to have undergone which I found very impressive.  However always in the backstreets, a slum on the outskirts and a small rural settlement away I was reminded of the stark inequalities that exist within a society where the caste system still prevails.

From the NGO side of the experience, I am glad I was able to infiltrate the several different grassroots establishments: Sharana, Volontariat, DGA and Seva Mandir which are all conducting fantastic development related projects which has inspired me to pursue more involvement in local organisations as opposed to the larger agencies who grab all of the media attention.  I have learnt to relax my ideals and aim to assist where relevant  organisations who are really working for their people and have the local knowledge necessary for successful programmes.  I remember in my degree theorising participatory development and indigenous knowledge which I am still very much an advocate of today.  I may not be qualified or required to work directly on community initiatives and with the beneficiaries but I at least know now that rather than sitting at a desk and feeling like one small part of a big machine, I need to do something more pro-active, hands-on and face-to-face.  I am a people's person not a, I want to engage with communities groups of varying nationalities, cultures and social backgrounds whether it be whilst travelling, working overseas, or even in my local supermarket.

India holds a very special place within my soul, it touches me in a way that I probably will not fully appreciate for a while yet but I sense that I cannot ignore the affinity I have to this raw and charming country.  There are many aspects of India which are love-able and simultaneously off-putting, that is the beauty of it and the people within this special land.

Thank you for everything: I have laughed, cried and loved intensely, travelled exhaustively, wandered independantly, lost and re-awakened myself several times over but never have I felt so alive...only in India.

Om shanti ॐ

To learn more about volunteering in India or becoming an IVC with DiA: www.developmentinaction.org

Last 2 months of 2010

November - December

Looking back over November and December post - Hampi and the volunteer visit in Pune, I realise how much I experienced during the last 2 months of 2010. More state crossings and several celebrations made this a colourful and possibly my favourite period of the year.
I will continue with the route I took, starting with an awful overnight bus journey to Udaipur from Pune. Not only was I sat uncomfortably for the entirety but I also had a slightly psychotic girl next to me who decided to take up half of my limited seat space and elbow me at frequent intervals!

Anyway I was relieved to reach the beautiful town and headed straight for my favoutire guest-house offering yoga classes every morning. I go tmyself settled and that evening met with the Seva Mandir volunteers minus one who was bedridden. I enjoyed the next few days wandering around the lake which had filled up substantially since the first time I had been. The rooftop yoga was really revitalising, after the over-indulgences of Pune my body felt like it was getting what it needed once more and the teacher was unique in his delivery style using only short sharp sounds to signal the changing of asanas.

Diwali

Plans for Diwali were the main topic of conversation, this is what I had timed my visit for and was excited about the prospect of experiencing it with one of my volunteers who was making arrangements for us.

When the actual day came, I was not feeling on top form after a night of cramps and shivers but determined to experience this special celebrations as much as possible. In the end I spent this festival of lights, the biggest celebration of the year (in India) in a family home where we partook in Puja. Some details of the ceremony were explained such as the dipping of coins in water, milk and curd.  It was a priviliege to celebrate with an Indians who true to their reputation were very welcoming. Oil lamps lit up the neighbourhood which was beautiful sight but gave a feeling of great humbleness. We moved onto to another part of town called Bapu Bazaar where the crowds were gathering around the Town Hall for the spectacular firework display which ensued and at times were within arms reach!

Pushkar

With one occasion over, another reason for my timing of the visit to Udaipur coincided with the famous annual Pushkar Camel Fair which the volunteers had been talking about since Orientation Week. I have to say I had no idea what to expect, picturing camels everywhere was not really an image I could get to grips with but one we were all very intrigued about. Pushkar itself was a place I had wanted to visit on my previous trip around the country but somehow hadn't made. Our view from the guest-house rooftop gave a good sense of the small, spiritual feeling of the holy-lake town.

A brief encounter with a friend from Pune who introduced us to a young Australian lead us to having a new crew member and guide who took us into the areas of interest. Describing the camel section as mind-blowing was an understatement, as we proceeded into the abyss of animals and peered around the sight was one of total surrealness...a sea of camels as far as the eye could see! It looked like a festival camp site with the humped creatures taking the place of humans and a bizarre hum of grunts which filled the air instead of music. AMAZING! Even more entertaining was the programme of events which followed in the stadium nearby. A timetable of camel racing, decorating contests and a football game between Indians and foreigners which the international team won and included my volunteer getting man of the match :) After several days of spectating, we decided to move on to Jodhpur for more Rajasthani sight-seeing.

Jodhpur

Also know as the Blue City and famous for it's Fort, Jodhpur was a manageable 5 hour ride away.

Our stay was a brief one but we saw what was important and the Jodhpur Fort was definitely worth visiting especially with the audio guides which prevented any nuisances caused by incessant guides. The sky was quite hazy and therefore we were not able to really capture the true blueness of the old city however it still made for a picturesque landscape. Near the exit a Palm Reader attracted out attention and we each took our turn to pay a visit to the quirky grey-haired palmist. Some of his remarks about my personality rang true, intuitive and and sensitive. But other observations about my family and love-life for example were a little off the mark! Still, I was particularly interested to hear that I would meet somebody at the ages of 29, 32 and that my most successful period will be in my mid-thirties :) Watch this space...

We left our Australian buddy behind to return to Udaipur where I stayed on for the next occasion which was the birthday of one of my volunteers. We held a party at the accommodation which was a lovely day/evening involving sophisticated snacks of cheese and olives followed by a lot of cake-face and shisha. A great ending to the month of merriment.

Pune

On 1st December every year, World AIDS Day is marked internationally by a rnage of events and campaigns. I had decided that it would be a great shame to miss the action surrounding this significant cause in Pune wehere the volunteers at DGS were preparing a programme of activities in aid of those affected by HIV/AIDS. So off I headed to Pune once more and in the process experienced the most horrific bus journey yet. It was honestly an unforgettable ride, little me in a sleeper bed on top-deck at the back...being in a washing maching is the closest thing I can describe the experience to. Shocking! Anyway it was obviously worth it as the day I arrived there was already an event planned for the evening which took the shape of a live male-auction in a popular bar in town. Some of the performances were slightly cringeworthy but all for a good cause and done in good humour.

In the lead up to WAD, the volunteers had a packed schedule of awareness-raising activities arranged to include street theatre, chalking and a stigma tunnel which was set up in various communties with high HIV/AIDS prevelance for the purpose of trying to help combat stigmatisation which unfortunately is a common cause of isolation for sufferers and their families. On 1st December, the WAD rally took place across town with a coalition of HIV/AIDS awareness NGO's joining forces taking to the streets with banners, leaflets and chants drawing attention the cause. Many passers by were engaged and we continued the campaigning action by conducting more street theatre plays around the topic in numerous parts of the city.

Overall I would say the volunteers made the whole series of events a success, very creative and well organised...it was evident their hard work had paid off as they even made it into the local newspapers a few times!

Hampi as can be...

Hampi - October

The initial scenery was already impressive, an incredible amount of boulders scattered everywhere! It took a little while to find the right place but in the end I settled for a nice room in the quieter backstreets, the view was what won me over as from my bed I could see the river, rockscape and plush palm trees...


The first three days I spent doing some hardcore sightseeing of the ruins of the Vijayanagar Empire, temples of all shapes and sizes not to mention the amazing scenery on the walks and cycles to each monument – truly breathtaking and like nothing I have ever seen. Wildlife here is active with plenty of monkeys, parrots, toads, lizards and a surprising amount of sheep! Hampi is so rich in history and natural beauty, it is perfect for those seeking both cultural and spiritual exploration. Everywhere you look there is something to discover and at the same time it is a great place for respite. Hampi Bazaar is small enough to feel like part of a community and as a whole big enough to disappear and lose yourself amongst the rocks.The only qualm I have is the hassle, like in all tourist trail destinations, the incessant hollering from shop-keepers, stall sellers, guides, guide-bookers, mappers and worst of all the families at every sight requesting photographs. There are only so many times I can take being asked for my picture from complete strangers who most of the time are laughing at me whilst doing so, so NO! It occurred to me how people living in the public eye must feel, whilst it is flattering it is also hard constantly saying no but it is not possible to pose for every photo. Catching people taking pictures from every angle whenever setting foot outside is very disturbing. That's all.

Regardless, I could happily stay in Hampi for a longer period of time perhaps over the river where one is more submersed into the landscape if I really want total peace. This is remarkably the first time I have slept soundly, it is a statisfying feeling to be physically tired from doing outdoor activities in pretty intense heat which I actually enjoyed after being in cooler Pondy.

It was noticeable to me that this is a dry state, no alchohol means people entertain themselves differently in the evenings such as strolling around, watching the sunset and relaxing in the numerous restaurants with cosy floor-seating areas some with occassional live music. I enjoyed going to the Virupaksha Temple one night, the darkness gave it a different vibe and it was much more atmospheric with the puja taking place and elephant wandering around. On my last night I came across a wedding celebration in the main bazaar, where I witnessed lively drumming and dancing taking place all the way along the path to my guest-house...perfect ending.

Orissa

By the sea in Holy Puri
It felt right to be going to Puri, from the description in the guidebook I knew it was going to be just what I needed. From one State to another, once I again an overnight train journey ensued and this time a Japanese female lone traveller was sharing the berth. She too was headed that way so we decided to help each other. Hotel Love & Life, that sounded like my kind of place but when we checked in I soon realised it was obviously not the place to be.

I used the remainder of the first day to explore the dusty little town by the sea, full of coastline and sleepy streets in direct sunshine lined with walls displaying copies of artwork by the Orissan Tribes.
Pink House, literally on the beach close to the fisherman's village where you could watch them going out and hear the waves coming in ...the following day I packed my bags and moved to this new perfect place where I instantly unwound.
Amidst the seashore and empty restaurants, several temples within and just outside of the town were worth paying a visit. The Jagganath Temple is an impressive structure, which unfortunately I was not permitted to enter as a non-Hindu but conveniently the library opposite let me view it from above for a small 'donation' which let me get a glimpse of the inside. In fact, Puri is renowned for being a town where pilgrims come to see this very temple and where travellers can recharge their batteries, both of which add to the special vibe.

Then there was the Sun Temple, a bus ride away through swampy scenery to Konark an even smaller town which exists purely around this sight. I was quite surprised by it as for some reason I had imagined it to be very colourful which it wasn't as it is all made up of a type of stone. Still, the hundreds of statues depicting stories I can only imagine and some practising the Karma Sutra were interesting to see!
What I enjoyed most about Puri was that I felt I could easily blend into the background, I was happy just exisiting there and doing nothing special except get on with work, talk with travellers and occassionally go to see my new Indian acquaintance who was quite a magical man. When the week was over I spent my last night on the Indian tourist beach which was a spectacular sight with the hords of families, chai wallahs, candyflossers and my favourite bhel puri stands which I just could not resist. Bells rang, horns blew and a buzz filled the air as the sun set.

A Big City and a Bengali Wedding

Kolkata

The journey to Kolkata was pretty standard, my 'Ladies quota' berth still had men in it but there was a nice family with baby to stare at. Anyway all was well until the end when I put my phone to charge and turned my back for one minute to look at the scenery outsideof the door, only to find that somebody (probably the strange man who appeared from nowehere and squeezed himself into the side berth opposite) had taken it and scarpered. It is a shame really because I always felt at ease on the trains but now I have learnt my lesson not to trust everyone so much and be more vigilent!
Luckily I had mentioned where I was aiming to stay to my friend whom had invited me to Kolkata for a wedding which was the reeason for my trip there in the first place! The Times Guest House, unfortunately not a place for spending much time in. My single room was definitely the most budget so far, a matchbox and a communal bathroom I could just about fit in...my first shower was quite an experience. Thankfully I was saved from despair when my friend turned up at my room, perfect timing. Good food was had at the rather randomly placed Moulin Rouge restaurant where plans for sightseeing and the wedding were discussed.
The first full day in the city was pretty busy, we headed off to be tourists visiting various sights such as the Planetarium with amusing show, Park Street Cemetery which was bizarrely beautiful and a mini pilgrimage to the 'Motherhouse' where Mother Theresa did much of her work.

Just wandering through the streets one could see how run-down everything seemed despite the city being newer than Delhi for example. However, Kolkata although a bit on the rough-looking side has a charm about it which I liked. With minimal congestion or hasslebustle, I was impressed by the Metro system which I had to use to go to my friend's house in preparation for the wedding...

Bengali Wedding

This was a special event. I found the whole affair very interesting, from watching how the bride and groom were separated into different rooms giving the large volume of guests a chance to swarm around and take countless photos. Then they each got fed Gulab Jamun, I guess to help stave off the hunger whilst everyone else was ablt to feast on the fabulous buffet. It actually was the same GJ that finished me off!

After a lot of chatting and admiring of outfits, the evening ended with the ceremony involving the bride hiding her face behind some leaves whilst being carried around the groom re-enacting their 'first meeting' and then swapping garlands before reciting some prayers. I was glad to have had the opportunity to see a Bengali wedding and wear a sari again.

My last few days in the city consisted of more walking, photo-snapping and eating. I grew to feel a bit at home in my matchbox butit was time to move on, to a more mellow destination further south in the state of Orissa to a town called Puri.

Phase Two: The Five-Month Volunteers

New Arrivals!

It is amazing how time passes here, at points it felt asif things were dragging in the beginning but then suddenly the time for farewells with the wonderful two-month volunteers came about.  It dawned on me what a quick turnover it is between the two groups and before I knew it the next bunch of five-month volunteers were due to arrive.  Luckily plans for the Oreintation Week fell into place smoothly using the contactsand similar format to the previous schedule.  This was a relief as I was entering the 'second phase' alone without my previous counterpart who decided to withdraw from the programme.

So, without further ado I cracked on and was set to roll in anticipation for the nine new Global Citizens! I was slightly nervous waiting on their arrival date but in fact Ineed not have worried as I received a call from one of them to tell me they had already checked-in to the hostel!! I was very impressed and at the same time felt a bit useless...Still independence was a good sign.  I cycled over to be met by their spritely faces, which I also had not expected after I learnt they had planned a day-trip straight from their flight before coming to Pondy.  They were going to be just fine.

The welcome meal at my favourite local Salt & Pepper went down welland I walked back home feeling confident that the training ahead with this group would be interesting.  Despite most of them having extensively travelled before and many in India, discussion-wise the volunteers seemed very engaged in most sessions and the organisational visits definitely proved thought provoking for them all.  At points when energy levels dropped I decided to let the group dictate when they felt they wanted to move some sessions. I think an important part of the IVC role is about gauging when to be flexible and involve the volunteers in decision-making.  After all it is about them and for them that I am here, therefore I had noproblems with relaxing the schedule a bit as long as they got what they needed outof the week.

One thing I found a bit difficult was having little time to interact with the group on a social level olutside of sessions, unfortunately once the workshops/visits were over there was no rest for me as I had tomake sure everything was ready and re-confirm arrangements for the following day.  Nonetheless there were a couple of occassions I managed to join them all for dinner which they even treated me to one night!  This is another aspect of the role which requires the ability tomaintain a professional relationship with them but alsoget to know everyone personally.  To be honest I am the sort of person wholikes to relate to people on a level without hierarchalk boundaries, just being open and approachable is what I find works well with most especially when amongst the same age group.

Once the intense week was over, the last day in Pondy was rather chaotic.  Having recommended Auroville to the group, I was glad they chose to spend their few hours left there before the upheaval to get everyone to their placements.  I on the other hand spent it whizzing around my beloved Ladybird for the last time but en route for my daily dose of cafe frappe, I was struck by a mental motorcyclist who knocked me off my bike causing me to land flat in the road.  Rather startled I looked around to see the mad man driving off, I was speechless and shaky but thankfully somebody came to help me prop up Ladybird.  At somepoint I realised that my toe was throbbing and as I tried to walk I felt the sharp pain...familiar feeling of a broken bone.  My lovely volunteers made aware of the slight mis-hap offered their sympathy.  At least we were sat on a train for two days but even getting to that stage was a challenge!

The journey:

Auto - Bus station: flat tyre requiring all to lift vehicle.
Bus - Chennai: Hub cap falls off causing repeated explosive sounds and stoppages for the men to look.
Train - Mumbai: Fine although very early arrival.
Arrival in Mumbai: Headed to dingy Dongri, first hotel no room leading to argument. Second place extortionate but after much haggling the deal was done and the four Udaipur volunteers were able to sleep :)

We spent a pleasant day in the city, strolling around Colaba until the time came to put the remaining lot on their bus...

Taxi - hotel: so much traffic, beginning to panic.
Hotel - station: Cutting it fine and when we got there disaster struck, it was the wrong station!!!
Adrenalin kicked in, bus company luckily called to see where we were and so I pleaded all the way for them to wait.  In the end we screeched up, I practically threw myself at the bus and hugged the volunteers goodbye.  Off they went, what a relief.

Volunteer Visits
Inevitably I found myself feeling relieved upon arrival once again in Pondy, it is that familiarity which I have grown to appreciate. Since being back in the flat, this time with the new five-month girls I have done some nice little activities. I decided that as part of their assessments I would go in with each of them to their placements and observe their routines. Despite having already been to Angalakuppam (Sharana Village) and Volontariat, this proved to be an effective way of realling putting into context what the placements entail and what the volunteers are experiencing during the programme.

In the village community centre run by women as part of an empowerment project facilitated by Sharana, the activities consist of helping in the creche with Tamil and English rhymes followed by some basic language teaching. The children are so well behaved and I quickly learnt not to judge gender by dress, rather androgenously there were many boys with flowers in their hair and girls in masculine clothes. He hours left were used to teach English to two of the staff there who are perfectly capable of running the project independently but want to feel more confident in their spoken English before doing so.

At Volontariat it was decided I would assist in their creche first thing in the morning which was quite a task. Feeding and drying numerous little ones was not something I am accustomed to but found it enjoyable for an hour and can see why volunteers like it. It did not seem appropriate to sit in on any of the one-to-one English tuition lessons that followed so off I went reflect on the beach nearby. I will try to do this for all my volunteers in their various organisation (DGS and Seva Mandir), it is also a good way for me to feel more involved whilst I visit rather than just sitting on the fence.

Aside from cooking, film-watching and occassionally eating out we were lucky enough to see the celebrations for Gandhi's birthday by the beach one evening which was an interesting cultural experience and most recently we observed some Puja's during our visit to some of the local temples. There is also a music night happening just in good time before I depart for Hampi, where the landscape is very rocky.

It has been quite a while since I posted anything related to work, perhaps the time of year is partly a reason with so many festivals including Diwali – festival of light and the biggest celebration in India. From Hampi I made my way to Pune where once again I stayed in the DGS volunteer accommodation which was rather full when I arrived. The timing of my visit seemed to be during a bit of a trough in terms of the volunteer's workload and aside from going into the office, there was not as much action to observe although plans for the upcoming World AIDS Day actvities were being put into place which the 3 DiA volunteers were very keen to help coordinate. I experienced more of the social side that comes with living in a big, modern and affluent city such as Pune which was a novelty but one which quickly wore thin. I was ready to move on to a more 'authentic' part of the country for the final visit to Udaipur.

Taking a break in Delhi...

Delhites

Malviya Nagar, South of Delhi city is where my official break off work began.  I found myself there after being invited from some friends to stay with them in their beautifully stylish flat in the neighborhood, of course I could not refuse the offer!  The area had an almost suburban feel to it with pleasant residential streets and a nice market place coupled with ruins sporadically laid out in the vicinity.  We started off well with a house party around the corner (within minutes of my arrival from the overnight sleeper train journey from Pune) followed by a headache.  My first full day was spent walking around getting to know the place before dressing up in a Saree and attending an extravagant affair called a 'Teej', a post engagement party for the bride-to-be resembling a classy version of a hen party.  We were treated with great care and received many approving looks due to our efforts in dressing appropriately.  The ended after many mocktails, music, mendhi and a meal which was not necessary after the assorted canapes we had feasted on!  Finally we went home with a beautiful box of sweets and a few female essential accessories :)
Whilst my lovely hosts went to work, I took the time to walk around in the glorious sunshine to see the impressive site of Qutub Minar before more socialising which took place at the flat, some friends of the couple came to celebrate the end of their stay over some ordered-in Indian.  They were actually volunteering with a company called Gap Guru which I had never heard of but seemed to have placements all over the World.  Everything was delicious but my stomach did not seem to agree....
The next three days were not pretty.  I tried to ignore what later became an obviously serious problem.  Unable to move except for when nature called and nearly passing out in the process, I was not in any state to be able to step outside even just for fresh air.  As it worsened and I became more dehydrated it became apparent that a visit to the doctor was needed.  I do not know how but I found it in me to get myself out and made it to the clinic.  Diagnosis: Gastroenteritis - nice.  Need I say more...
In recovery I chose to find solace by going the Bahai House of Worship, The Lotus Temple.  Of course en route it decided to absolutely tip it down and by the time the auto pulled up I was going nowhere.  Once the initial downpour subsided I went for it, barefoot and wet I walked down the path to purity.  What a stunning sight, so worth the wet.  Inside in silence birds could be heard singing whilst visitors worshipped their own different faiths.  I finally relaxed.  This was to be the last bit of peace before I moved on to Pahaganj the following day.

Main Bazaar

The ride to the tourist hub of the city was great, I felt like I was clearing my mind of all the illness.  I had anticipated staying in the same place as I did 7 years prior when I first set foot in the country as a naive 18 year old Gap year traveler.  However, the prices which have risen significantly deterred me and so I opted for the cheaper version next door directly on the main road of main bazaar (Paharganj).  Now, I am still undecided how I feel about the place, nostalgia initially made me excited about being back in what I felt was really what I call India.  But on closer inspection, whereas the shoe shop, sticker man and juice stand were still there, extensive rubble and half-derelict buildings were also featuring in the landscape.  Unfortunately the construction taking place looked more like a scene of mass destruction!   Not the same place visually but still retained some of it's character.  I kept walking into places and suddenly getting flashbacks of havingeaten or shopped there, very confusing.
I had a really good day walking around the backstreets were there was so much more life to see down those winding mud alleys where locals are just going about their daily business, rather than depressing myself glimpsing at the dusty doorways on the main strip. Oh India, for all it's dirt there is still a charm - the people of course.  I was delighted when I came across a sweet shop and asked if I could buy just one piece, 'Of course Maam, we are here for you'!
The last day did not quite go according to plan.  Mud being the main factor, but also it seemed that it was not only Paharganj under construction.  The Crafts Museum which I was very interested in seeing turned out to be be a few run-down exhibits with several demonstrators desperate to sell their goods.  Oh well, I had still anticipated Janpath (Tibetan Market), but yet again as I wandered the highways a short burst of drops tumbled down at which point an auto appeared and I decided it best to go back to the paraphernalia of Paharganj where I enjoyed chilling on rooftops, talking to travelers, shopping and eating before the two-day train to Chennai ahead.